It started innocently enough (these things usually do): A holiday with my husband Tim to Cirebon on the north coast of Java, to celebrate my birthday.

Why Cirebon? First, because I'm a big batik fan, and Cirebon batik is a favorite. Second, because Cirebon's seafood is seriously yummy! Third, because of Cirebon's remarkable history of cultural diversity, combining Javanese, Sundanese, Malay, Chinese and Arabic elements in syncretistic versions of Islam that seem very far from the mainstream. Last but not least, because of Fahmina, an NGO "working in the field of religious studies, strengthening civil society and community empowerment".